Mexico's Prettiest Stretch of Coast
By Glynna Prentice

One of the prettiest stretches of coast on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is the Costa Maya. This lies on the Caribbean and runs roughly from the Belize border north to the little town of Mahahual. On the Costa Maya the waters are turquoise, the beaches are fine white sand, and you find some of the best snorkeling and diving around.

In fact, if you're a water sports fanatic this area is near heaven. Swimming, kayaking, fishing, and nearly every other sport that you can do in or on the water is possible here. But don't expect a posh resort area. The Costa Maya is still blissfully off the beaten path, and life here is all about the beach.

Most of the area is "off the grid"—without public water or electricity lines. You won't find high-end restaurants, name-brand stores, or much shopping beyond the basics. There are relatively few hotels. And the only town of any size is Mahahual, with a population of a few hundred people.

This life seems to suit the expats who have settled here. Many are adventure lovers: outdoor types or those who seek the independence and quiet of a life in this part of the Mundo Maya. (It means "Maya World" and describes a wide swath in Mexico, Belize, and other countries that once were the Maya kingdoms.) But I have wondered how the Costa Maya may change as expats and investors look beyond the Riviera Maya at this southern piece of coast.

I therefore visited Mahahual recently to see how it was faring. Hurricane Dean, which roared through the Costa Maya in August 2007, literally flattened the town. Served lemons, the locals decided to make lemonade: They've rebuilt Mahahual with the type of city planning it didn't get the first time around.

Today there's a newly-built malecón—a seaside boardwalk—that runs the length of the city. On one side are Mahahual's shops and restaurants; on the other is a broad stretch of beach where many restaurants set up tables. The cruise ship pier at one end of town has been repaired and is back in operation. And everywhere you look—for two and three rows back from the malecón—you see construction under way.

This isn't surprising. Though side streets in Mahahual are still dirt and sand, this town has electricity, city water, and other amenities. Those seeking urban living on the Costa Maya find it here. Also not surprisingly, prices in and around Mahahual are slightly higher than elsewhere along this coast.

Lots on the Costa Maya—and in most cases we are talking lots rather than finished homes—generally run between $150,000 and $200,000 depending on size and the quality of the beach. From a cursory look, the distance from Mahahual also may be a factor.

One project in Mahahual that I especially wanted to see is a condominium building under construction, the first on Mahahual's malecón. It advertises that all condos will have panoramic ocean views, and from what I could tell from construction this is indeed true. The building is right on the malecón and offers secure parking on the ground floor. All but one of the condos, a two-bedroom unit, have already sold. The price is listed as $175,000—not bad for the first-line beach in an unspoiled area.

I also saw at least four other buildings—houses from the look of them—under construction within a few blocks of the condo building.

For anyone looking for property in an area that may be poised for growth, the Costa Maya is worth a look. At very least, you can enjoy the sun and surf in an area that is still rather wild and untouched.

 —Recommended By International Living Magazine —

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Developers now often divide central Tuscany's large farmhouses and estates into smaller homes. Sadly, I haven't spotted any bargains. A 1,075-square-foot apartment for 532,000 euro ($660,000)? In today's cash-strapped climate, I'd guess it's destined to stay unsold for quite a while longer. This was in Sant Anastasio, a hamlet on the road to San Gimignano of the towers, Italy’s "medieval Manhattan".

For me, touristy haunts are places for weekends and day-trips. Not desirable places to live. An espresso coffee costs a dollar in the Lunigiana, but more like $3 here. Architecturally dreamy though they are, coach-tour towns like San Gimignano are the Tuscany of mediocre menu turisticos, not the good-value pranzo di lavoro (working lunch).

Of course, the Golden Triangle represents an "Under the Tuscan Sun" dream for some. On via Gramsci in Volterra’s town center, Gabetti agency has a few long-term furnished rentals. Considering the area, prices are reasonable: $445 monthly for a one-bedroom unit; $533 for a two-bedroom apartment.

But it wasn't real estate that drew me to Volterra.



Rather it was the Etruscans, a Bronze Age people who inhabited this part of Italy before Roman times. A walled medieval town atop a ridge, Volterra was once an Etruscan stamping ground. Go for a visit, even if you’re not intrigued by the antique past. Studded with palazzos, its winding streets contain many artisan workshops: glass, ceramic and mosaic artists, bronze-casters, wrought-iron smiths, bookbinders, etc.

Alabaster carvers, too—Volterra is renowned for this soft white stone, mined from the hills since Etruscan times. An alabaster-topped bottle stopper proved irresistible. As I rarely leave wine in a bottle, it will get little use, but no matter. At $1.90, definitely a bargain. There are tourist alabaster shops aplenty, but Giorgio and Roberto’s Alab’Arte workshop is the real deal. (Via Orti di Sant'Agostino, 28.)

Now, I know that drooling over Etruscan funerary artifacts isn’t everyone’s idea of a fun time. But, oh! Well over 2,000 years ago, these talented people produced life-like alabaster carvings of the dead to recline atop small sarcophagi. Containing the ashes of cremation, the stone boxes are also adorned with incredibly detailed panels. They often depict battles with demons or journeys to the Etruscan otherworld. Volterra’s Etruscan museum, Museo Guarnacci, has one of the world's best collections.

Not all sarcophagi are behind glass. Some weather away in the museum’s small inner garden. Along with votive offerings and jewelry, you can also see the most famous of all Etruscan sculptures—an elongated figure of a young man called the Ombra della Sera, or "Shadow of the Evening".

Sheer magic.

Above a grassy park where students loll in the sun, Volterra’s prison looks magical too. Yes, that "must-see" Medici fortified castle dominating the town is used to jail miscreants. Near the castle/prison gate are warnings about no photography and promises of vigilanzia armata.

I wasn’t about to tangle with armed prison guards to get illicit photos. That said, pitching up on the wrong side of Volterra’s prison walls would be a really inexpensive way to experience the Tuscan lifestyle...